She is an ageless beauty. Rustan’s house designer Criselda Lontok is in her trademark silhouette—loose blouse with three-quarter sleeves paired with slim pants and ballerina shoes.
The look is made striking by the combination—a bold pattern of black-and-white stripes accentuated by yellow flowers for the top, paired with acorn yellow bottoms and matching shoes to give her a longer line. Soft waves frame her chiseled face, and her makeup is soft in classic brown eye shadow and pink lipstick.
It is not uncommon for women of a certain age to approach Lontok at a party, in church or in the store to thank her for designing clothes that flatter their full figure.
This afternoon, Baby Reyes, 63, who works for an NGO, has bought Fortuny-pleated jackets for a wedding in China. Before discovering the Criselda brand, she couldn’t find stylish clothes for plus sizes and mature women.
“I’ve been coming to Criselda for more than 10 years now. Her fashion is classic. It can be sporty but not too casual. You can wear it from day to night,” says Reyes. “I’m at least a size 14, but I don’t look it in her clothes. When I go out, I’m not worried that I’ll bump into someone in the same outfit.”
Lontok says, “If you do, just say, ‘We both have good taste.’”
Dust coats
It is Lontok’s distinctively feminine touch that has made her Rustan’s top-selling local brand in the past 28 years.
Lontok has remained true to her formula—loose silhouettes that de-emphasize the bulges; three-quarter sleeves to hide the batwing arms and give women freedom of movement; luxurious fabrics, bright colors, bold patterns and floral motifs.
The jackets come in ‘50s-inspired swing shapes, while the tunics have the ‘60s A-line. Her bread-and-butter is the sabrina jersey shirt with three-quarter sleeves adorned with bold prints that flatters any figure.
Her trademark open neckline gently swerves from shoulder to shoulder to camouflage both the flat and buxom chests. Some shirts are sewn with floral patchwork for distinctive look.
For the Criselda holiday collection, the dust coat is the major fashion statement. It comes in rich colors of burgundy, magenta, wine, turquoise and combinations of gray and fuchsia.
“I love dust coats because they’re dressy. You can wear it to CCP or dinner,” Lontok says. “I also love jacquard. It’s rich. Even if it’s done in simple design, it will look stylish.”
The evening gowns hark back to the Grecian look with subtle draping and ruching, accentuated with flowerettes. For the fuller figure, Lontok recommends a chocolate brown gown in taffeta with puff sleev
es caught in a bow to cover the arms.
Great beauty
Lontok was exposed to fashion at a young age. A great beauty, she was always being asked to join the Miss Philippines but her grandfather disapproved, not wanting to see her parade in a swimsuit. She became Miss Batangas instead, and went into modeling.
She did the big shows such as the famous “Fashion on Wings,” where the designers presented their collection onboard Philippine Airlines.
Lontok joined Rustan’s in 1974 as a merchandiser under the tutelage of founder and president Gliceria Rustia Tantoco.
“She said, ‘You can’t be sosyal here.’ I worked hard to win her trust. When I did something, I finished it. I didn’t leave things hanging. She had great foresight. You’ve got to think ahead of everybody else, she said.”
Although Tantoco built her reputation on imported labels, she started introducing locally-made blouses. She asked Lontok to assist her. In time, Tantoco gave Criselda full rein to develop the collection. By 1980, the local labels were branded as Mode Internationale. Lontok’s clothes would be sold alongside Diane Von Furstenberg’s.
Pleased with its outstanding sales performance, Tantoco finally gave Lontok her big break by launching her as Rustan’s house designer.
“The Tantocos are very organized. They say, ‘Retail is detail.’ We chose the right fabrics and the classic styles. Then I introduced loose tops with matching pants and evening wear in organza,” recalls Lontok. “My label was always the front-runner. I captured the market—the doñas.”
Fabulous women
Her roster of clients consists more of women of a certain allure, rather than of a certain age. Despite the formulaic styles of Criselda, they have to maintain their individuality.
Philanthropist Imelda Cojuangco favors the classic embroidered blouses and sheer tops. Cristina Ponce Enrile takes to A-line silk dresses in warm colors with florals. The late Cabinet member Josie Lichauco had a no-nonsense approach to dressing. She bought corporate blouses in silk and silk blends.
Mary Prieto, who had the classic American look—casual and sporty—wore the pants with unfussy blouses. Menchu Concepcion can get away with off-the-shoulder blouses in chantilly lace. Jewelry designer Beng Fores, who is a size 14, amps up a basic Criselda outfit with her bold accessories. Fores likes shoulder pads for definition.
Chary Bagatsing pairs her trapeze tops with slim pants. Even Rustan’s president, Zenaida Tantoco, loves Criselda’s trapeze. “She says it doesn’t cling to the body. She wears my clothes to important affairs,” says Lontok.
Isabel Wilson does the whole range, from chiffon ponchos to evening gowns. She even had a chiffon gown customized.
Elenita Binay’s signature look is the sabrina jersey T-shirt with big prints. In the “700 Club,” TV host Coney Reyes wears Lontok’s chiffon blouses with gathered sleeves. Investment banker Joanne de Asis buys the sculptural jackets and jacquard-printed organza shawls.
Show biz manager Annabelle Rama goes romantic in loose chiffon blouses with billowy sleeves, while Conchitina Bernardo finds the dressy jackets and jersey tops ideal for travel.
“They’re very light, easy to pack and they dry easily,” says Lontok.
When the Catholic Women’s Club and the Friends of the Cultural Center of the Philippines hold their annual balls, Lontok calls them up and plans their wardrobe, making sure there’s no duplication.
At her fashion show at Rustan’s two weeks ago, her clients came in full force.
Niche market
Although the Criselda brand is a niche market, Lontok clarifies that her clothes aren’t just for full figures or women of a certain age. Even younger women could relate to the Fortuny-pleated jackets with shawl collars and the spaghetti-strapped gowns.
She takes pride in the fact that the fabrics are sourced abroad and that some styles are imbued with patchwork. “You won’t see the same designs elsewhere,” she declares.
Ultimately, it’s not what a mature woman wears, but how she wears it that makes her look fabulous.
“Women should be true to themselves. They should know their flaws and hide them. Lahat ngayon tago.”
