Philippine surf spots are fast becoming reputable food destinations. That’s what’s happening in places like Siargao, La Union and Baler.
Foreign surfers who have decided to live in the Philippines set up shop in those places, or the locals try to fill a need. In either case, everyone benefits—progress in the provincial food scene adds excitement and allure for any traveler, surfer or not.
Last month I was in Baler, Aurora province, to attend the 118th Philippine-Spanish Friendship Day where I had candid moments with some of the guests.
Resto roundup
I met Somjai Taphaopong, minister counselor at the Royal Thai Embassy, who showed how she prepares vermicelli salad—thin rice noodles tossed with a bunch of freshly sliced veggies, ground pork and shrimp and bathed with a spicy fish sauce and lemon dressing.
As a first-time visitor, I discovered rich history of Baler, birthplace of Manuel Quezon, President of the Commonwealth of the Philippines from 1935-44. The celebration of Philippine-Spanish Friendship Day commemorates the 118th anniversary of the Siege of Baler.
Dining options here are quite varied. Kusina Luntian, where you eat kamayan-style from banana leaves, is known for the Wapang Wapang na Liempo and Wang Patawad na Tapa.
The refreshing Pako Salad, which is dotted with tomatoes and the creamiest of salted eggs, is dressed in a lovely sweet-sour vinaigrette.
A must-try is the Dinangdang na Hita ng Manok, a whole bone-in chicken leg that’s grilled, placed in a foil bag with butter and coconut milk, sealed and returned to the hot grill. It is finished with melted cheese on top.
If you prefer dining in a commercial air-conditioned restaurant with cushioned seats and clean comfort rooms, the newly opened bistro Kubli is a good choice.
A first of its kind in the still rustic city, Kubli can accommodate 60 guests at a time. There’s pizza, fish tacos and chicken wings, but cold beer and the bracing provincial breeze will whet your appetite for its version of sisig, lechon with tokwa and pugita guisado, the latter made with fresh octopus.
‘Dinakdakan’
Many locals go to Danny’s Grill for their fix of their favorite Dinakdakan, an Ilocano dish made of grilled chopped pork belly with red onion, green chili and vinegar.
There’s also seafood like hito and bangus, but the Dinakdakan is hard to ignore.
Just behind the Costa Pacifica Resort is Charlie Does Café that serves its own craft beer, lambanog named Explorer and a vegetarian menu. It relies mostly on beans, mushrooms and vegetables harvested from the café’s backyard to turn sisig, tapa and fries into savory fare.
The beef taco, made of red rice, kidney beans and chopped tomatoes, drizzled with silken tofu and calamansi cream, is mouth-watering. For dessert, there is homemade coconut scones, choco chip cookies and banana pie, best enjoyed with coffee brewed from local beans.
Popping up all over the city is Palás Chori Burgers—run by a young surfer named Chino who moved from Manila to Aurora in 2008 to ride the wave and earn a living.
Palás means famished and there’s no better dish to appease hunger than the chorizo patty that’s fried, glazed, topped with fresh pako (fiddlehead fern) and tucked inside soft sesame buns.
Baler has its own famed bakeshop, Dialyn’s, which has been selling favorites like buko bun, yema swirl and pork asado bun for five years now.
Owned by Dialyn Tolentino, this go-to pastry shop draws long queues for its freshly baked pandesal. But what’s been attracting people lately is the Brazo de Mercedes. The soft meringue roll is pillowy, while the custardy fillings—salted egg and calamansi—add just the right amount of sweetness.
People traveling to Baler usually have surfing in mind, but with the wide array of delicious food available in the city, eating around town may soon be a top priority. —CONTRIBUTED
