Standout looks from the Spring 2021 menswear collections seem to have come from wildly differing points of view about how a man of the early 2020’s should emerge stylish in the wake of a plague.
On one hand, there is that unwavering proposition for the resolutely idiosyncratic, from the studded lounge shorts at Celine, to the glittery cycling shorts at Lazoschmidl. It could also be something as characteristically fashion-y as wearing all black, but it has to be leather pants and a silk shirt, as seen on GmbH.
On the other hand, there are the designers that are harking for a determinedly unfussy sense of unstudied ease. The loose olive suit at Lemaire, the strong case for a burnt hickory brown ensemble at Rhude, and the pastel knits at Dior come to mind. Let us not forget the crewneck pullovers and sweatpants at Prada.
Of course there is something to be said about new classics with an unexpected twist, be it the cargo pants at Jacquemus with the fern print, or the gold rivets on both jacket and pants at Phipps. These are fresh sightings that would meld well in the outgoing wardrobe of someone who’s more than willing to dress upward and forward.
Finally, I always scan the menswear season looking for a favorite suit. This season it’s the opening look at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, a metallic silver number fit for a ball in Mars—if it comes to that.