Den by Nikkei is another welcome step in the expansion of Japanese-Peruvian gastronomy in Manila

Nikkei has always had an understated vibe to it and its latest iteration in Forbestown BGC is no exception—save for one thing. It exudes an unmatched confidence earned over years of Japanese-Peruvian gastronomy experience.

Simply called Den by Nikkei, the Japanese restaurant brings an even more pleasurable allure in a space inspired by Tokyo sake bars and Kyoto breweries that primarily focuses on steak, sushi, and izakaya culture.

Among the standouts you immediately notice about the upscale izakaya are the predominantly wooden interiors, moody lighting, and the large-scale geisha paintings, which all conceive the idea of an actual den—perhaps one by Nikkei Group restaurateur Carlo Gordon Lorenzana.

It’s the kind of space that can easily go from day to night. And it actually does on certain days when a DJ spins records in the room to transform the atmosphere.

In the center of the first floor is a counter that sits somewhere between the personal and the professional as an army of chefs led by Yonemoto Kazumasa and Richie Buenaventura move in droves to pull off the multiconcept menu, while diners on the bar watch the lineup execute with military precision and enjoy a variety of premium wagyu cuts (the wagyu no moriawase features three types you can cook in front of you) or a binchotan charcoal-grilled tomahawk.

Passing the rest of the cool Japanese izakaya checks are traditional chirashi and chahan bowls and a cutesy Peruvian-style sashimi (tiradito) made with whatever is the catch of the day (a lapu-lapu on our visit swimming in aji amarillo juice, chalaquita, and olive oil).

Sushi is clearly a major draw here—a pair of maguro foie nigiri offers a rich, brash bite with the truffle oil subtly enhancing the purity of the tuna. The Thai maki meanwhile is a surprising revelation. Fried prawns, a deep amai sauce, batayaki parmesan, and eel sauce? That’s cheesy sushi gold right there.

Passing the rest of the cool Japanese izakaya checks are traditional chirashi and chahan bowls and a cutesy Peruvian-style sashimi (tiradito) made with whatever is the catch of the day

As you continue to mine the depths of the expansive Den by Nikkei menu, you’ll soon find more gold under your noses. The small but filling plates are stellar, particularly the smooth and succulent six-piece razor clams batayaki. A main favorite is the creamy yakiudon bathed in a Peruvian rocoto uchucata sauce, uni paste, and chalaquita that, in a good way, swerves more into traditional pasta territory. This approach pushes it into the top-tier ranks of udons in Manila and undoubtedly one of the driving forces of the menu.

The other unmistakable power behind Den by Nikkei is the sweeping beverage menu that includes Japanese-inspired cocktails (Shibuya gimlet or Kyoto mule, anyone?), a wine list curated by Carlo’s wife Jackie (the Hermanos Lurton Tempranillo from Toro in Spain’s wine-producing Castile and León region is a lovely young wine), and a top-billing sake selection by beverage consultant Jorge Joseph.

The other unmistakable power behind Den by Nikkei is the sweeping beverage menu that includes Japanese-inspired cocktails, a wine list curated by Carlo’s wife Jackie, and a top-billing sake selection by beverage consultant Jorge Joseph

The sake sampler was particularly fun. A waiter brings all three bottles to your table, puts down the sake cups, and pours a small amount of the liquid for you to taste. The first one we tried was Hyogo’s Hamafukutsuru Junmai Daiginjo, an award-winning sake that is smooth and crisp but packs a bit of a punch. The second one, the Yamagata Masamune Inazo, is a mild sip and, as Joseph says, doesn’t contain any added alcohol. Lastly, the Masumi Shiro Junmai Ginjo from Nagano uses Yeast #7, which is one of the most popular yeasts, to give it gentle and fruity notes.

“After tasting the three sakes, you can choose the glass of sake you want,” says Joseph.

And in essence, that’s the real joy inside this den. You step inside the intimate loft for an exploration of Japanese-Peruvian gastronomy and decide for yourself how to amass the wealth of culinary heritage at play here. Regardless of which direction you take or what path you exhaust, Den by Nikkei will serve its purpose.