In a bid to boost his brand, Juniper sees Josh Boutwood bring his signature takes up north

There’s just always something about Josh Boutwood.

Whether it’s helming a chic fine dining space, testing and tinkering with techniques in the kitchen or going savage with open flames, the eloquent chef seems to be that self-aware person who politely sees promise in his practice.

But there’s a missing piece in the puzzle: a restaurant outside Makati and BGC.

That’s all changed though with the blooming of Juniper at Streetscape in Shangri-La Plaza. “I wanted to go north of the river because it’s the gateway to the north, Shangri-La essentially, and I’ve been told in the past that the north is a market that is young,” Boutwood explains over discussions about On sneakers and the Michelin Guide’s arrival in the Philippines.

“This first step beyond the Pasig River is like a stepping stone to the greater north and we’ll see where it goes from there,” says Josh Boutwood

“And I think this first step beyond the Pasig River is like a stepping stone to the greater north and we’ll see where it goes from there.”

Juniper, the preeminent berry of the north?

Less primal than Savage, not as serious as Ember, and definitely not as theatrical as Helm (“That’s probably me winning an Oscar or Golden Globe award”), Juniper’s debut ushers in a perhaps gentler Boutwood. Like the berry it’s named after, this latest iteration in his portfolio is as fresh, aromatic, and piney as it can get. 

Less primal than Savage, not as serious as Ember, and definitely not as theatrical as Helm (“That’s probably me winning an Oscar or Golden Globe award”), Juniper’s debut ushers in a perhaps gentler Boutwood

“It’s one of those concepts that is easy to understand, to find a dish that you’re going to absolutely love and return again and again for,” he says. “It’s one of those emotions that I’m very happy to put out to the public, and hopefully the public understands and enjoys it.”

That said, the restaurant has all the hallmarks of a signature Boutwood outpost—think Ember, Savage, and Anvil with tweaks—but still advances its own unique interests to make the foraging trip to Juniper worth it.

“All of my restaurants kind of still have that ‘me’ in it, you know. And I don’t know if that’s a good thing or a bad thing, but in a way this is actually [like Savage’s child],” he explains. “But it had to be done differently because we don’t have any open fire.”

What to eat at Juniper by Josh Boutwood

Juniper’s menu however inherits the chef’s tradition of beautifully structured small and large plates and delicious sides and desserts hewed from his Scandinavian sensibilities. Though it’s designed to be “light and bright to a point” and doesn’t stray into any singular cuisine, Juniper’s recognizable trait is that it rarely goes out of style.

Though it’s designed to be “light and bright to a point” and doesn’t stray into any singular cuisine, Juniper’s recognizable trait is that it rarely goes out of style

From the Anvil favorite of wild mushrooms, Comte cheese, and white wine to the botanical beauty of the bright Korean persimmons complemented by lardo and pumpkin seeds, the menu is packed with highlights “to have a casual meal with friends and family… and just kind of create memories.”

An iceberg lettuce wedge with a creamy Stilton cheese and bits of applewood bacon is a welcome treat, while the charcuterie offerings of  pistachio mortadella and the slightly spicy and salty fennel salami, which Boutwood says will move around every month, responds to diners that are keen to dwell in the Headroom-designed restaurant.

Elsewhere, Boutwood flips the switch with memorably intense flavors. The Koshihikari rice-stuffed chicken wings dabble with heat, the braised lamb saddle deflects the gaminess of the meat, the pork chop is doused with Savage’s M1 marinade, and the wet-aged ribeye steaks are pan-seared to perfection.

The drinks and desserts (particularly the burnt honey creme brulee) aren’t drags either.

“I love the versatility of the gin and tonic. It’s an extremely simple beverage to mix, but then when you incorporate flavors, aromatics, and the likes into the drink, you make it signature,” says Boutwood. “That’s essentially the restaurant’s concept.”

On top of the standard libations, beers, and a soon-to-come wine list, Boutwood decks out his beverage program with creative gin variations, such as a gin and hibiscus tonic and a signature drink with tamarind and tequila. It’s a move that makes Juniper drip with a personality different from its siblings.

Still in his element

Second-guessing his restaurant motifs aside, Boutwood’s bid for the north is a calculated roll of the dice. He is smart to let denizens of the north fall in love with signature plates over and over while sidestepping the issue of the long trek to Makati or BGC, and even fascinating longtime fans with giddy takes on lovely flavors.

“I want our guests to come in and feel like they have been hit with a breath of fresh air and leave refreshed and excited to come back”

But personally, the best thing about Boutwood is that he can’t be bothered with the traps of fleeting trends. Instead, he constantly puts forward sparkling plates that simply spark the taste buds.

“I want our guests to come in and feel like they have been hit with a breath of fresh air and leave refreshed and excited to come back.”