The creative forces behind Kiwami go into overdrive to cultivate an immaculate “master kitchens” (re)conception

There comes a moment in any restaurant’s life when it’s time for a transformation. Whether due to tougher competition, market shifts, evolving consumer tastes, or simply a matter of innovation, it’s a necessary itch that needs to be scratched in the life cycle of F&B brands.

For siblings Michael and Nic Concepcion of the Standard Hospitality Group (SHG), this assignment came naturally since opening Kiwami a little over three years ago. “In our case, it was a decision to reinvest in a brand that is working well for us and which we want to build and grow further,” says Michael, SHG creative director.

“I don’t think the Kiwami customer changed that much, if anything I’d like to see our guests celebrate more important moments with us—a space where they celebrate important moments with family but also equally appropriate for a lunch meeting,” says Nic Concepcion.

Today, that reinvention comes to fruition as Kiwami the Japanese food hall evolves into Kiwami: Japanese Master Kitchens. “We wanted to take this opportunity to reintroduce ourselves through our flagship, as this current model is also what will be seen in our upcoming locations,” Michael adds.

Crafting a masterful comeback

A lot has changed and yet much remains the same. Purposely faithful to the full-service, fine casual dining experience Kiwami espouses yet it pleasantly teases and tantalizes with uniquely Michael and Nic touches.

The time spent revamping the space was enough elbow room for the siblings to flex their creative muscles. Inside, the golden autumnal glow of the enormous hall doesn’t disappoint. It retains its footprint but the massive venue’s breadth and more intentional layout seems to increase seating capacity without resorting to a densely chaotic environment.

It’s still bustling with energy, sure, but the good kind. One that’s akin to Japan’s depachika (underground food halls) teeming with deliciously boundless options.

Kiwami also embraces a sharper design ethos, showcasing the Concepcions’ exquisite taste in expression through details that keep the eye focused and the conversations buzzing, thanks largely to a floor plan that either isolates customers from the action, throws them right into the thick of things, or encourages communal dining.

“The design choices were inspired by some of our favorite hotel lobbies in Tokyo and Kyoto,” explains Michael. “To be honest, I haven’t stayed at many of them, but I always make a point to have coffee at the lobby of The Edition, the Andaz, etc. They always feel very warm and open, and I wanted to bring that same feeling here.”

A lot has changed and yet much remains the same. Purposely faithful to the full-service, fine casual dining experience Kiwami espouses yet it pleasantly teases and tantalizes with uniquely Michael and Nic touches.

To achieve that vicarious feeling, Michael tapped the Peter Lampard-led Design Eight Five Two (DEFT) design and creative studio team to piece together a distinct Kiwami refurbishment—from the materials and finish to the patterns and overall vibe.

“This is his first commercial project in Manila since opening their satellite office, and we’re excited to build more with them,” shares Michael.

Their close collaboration not only realizes the gleeful yet down-to-earth “master kitchens” character but also reinforces the idea that gourmet spaces like these are, above all, “a robust platform for cultural expression and discovery”—one that “gives people a sense of place.”

And that’s just the beginning for this foodie epicenter

New ways to eat Japanese

One of the biggest changes of course is in the menu. Joining the ranks of Yabu, Ippudo, Hachibei, and Hannosuke are the creative handroll bar in collaboration with chef Mark Manaloto called Koyo and the hibachi sharing menu crafted alongside Sydney chefs, Cho Cho San alums, and eventual friends Max Smith and Douglas Barker, who “share the same goals and pace.”

The train of thought behind this menu engineering is simple: It’s an opportunity to complete the Kiwami puzzle and provide a relevant counterpoint for the vast clientele they attract.

“We already had a pretty wide menu, but we did see some gaps in the way our customers ordered their meal,” explains Nic, Kiwami’s marketing manager. “We found that we were a bit lacking in our smaller appetizers so we created Koyo as the perfect start to any meal.”

These additions are also revelations in contrast. The hibachi sharing menu is short and sweet (even Sabrina Carpenter would be proud) yet it’s easy to get lost in the food “family-style.” But the classic, crispy, and signature Koyo handrolls might just be a glittering cornerstone of the new Kiwami experience.

All 10 handrolls look intricately joyous. They come in the right length and shape for a filling and fulfilling bite, and they are loaded with fine ingredients that rightly form the foundation of any meal starter. Flavors and toppings range from the familiar (spicy tuna with chili aoili) and dreamy (ebi furai, creamy crab, cured quail egg yolk) to the radically euphoric (katsu oyster with tartare and kizami wasabi).

The hibachi sharing menu is short and sweet (even Sabrina Carpenter would be proud) yet it’s easy to get lost in the food “family-style.” But the classic, crispy, and signature Koyo handrolls might just be a glittering cornerstone of the new Kiwami experience.

And unlike your usual rolls, these temaki sushi are enclosed in a special cover to retain the nori’s shape, hold everything together, and keep the bite as fresh as possible. Michael’s keen eye for design is perceptible in their presentation, too, in which the rolls fit snugly in these adorable little holders.

“To be honest, I was working for about four months on a different version of the holders, which resemble the icon of our logo that I made,” he explains. “I was working with our team and 3D rendering these out, but it just didn’t make it in time, so the version we launched with was our Plan B. But I am very determined to make the first concept work, so I might be rolling these out as soon as I crack the design!”

On the hibachi side of things, specific pleasures also collide and crack to great effect. A personal favorite is the mountainous plate of char-grilled kampachi collar atop their house tare. Expect notes of the ocean and rice wine and lime unfurl with each bite, then pair it with a seafood XO fried rice, as Nic recommends, to reach an inescapable zenith.

Elsewhere, a grilled blue marlin—gently enhanced by a scattering of herbed koji, chimichurri, wasabi, and a grilled lemon on the side—as well as a binchotan-grilled pork chop bask in their moment on the table.

Also relevant to Kiwami’s bold new transformation are the cult favorite soft creams—in particular the limited-time chocolate crumble—that radiate pure pleasure and complete the various kitchen specializations in the hall.

Cultivating connections at Kiwami

So, after a couple of hours happily tucking into the feast with fellow food media friends, it reminded me of Steve Cuozzo’s New York Post column in February 2024 where he pointed out New York’s food hall fatigue—“wild inconsistency,” “lost their specialness,” “too many of them”—and made me wonder whether Michael and Nic can buck the potential pitfalls many others faced.

But the fact that Kiwami launched in 2021 in the middle of the pandemic with “no framework to guide us,” says Michael, reveals a lot about their capabilities to get over grim realities. There’s also one other example that makes me think their residencies in BGC, Alabang, and soon at SM Mall of Asia edge towards a long-term legacy—and that’s fully appreciating the best moments of transforming and relaunching Kiwami.

But the fact that Kiwami launched in 2021 in the middle of the pandemic with “no framework to guide us,” says Michael Concepcion, reveals a lot about their capabilities to get over grim realities.

“Last night, seeing the place filled to the brim, kitchens working on all cylinders, all our front of house teams full of smiles with our guests, and our guests loving everything. It really was so heartwarming for our team to see everyone genuinely love the space and food,” confesses Nic.

If only I could witness their opening day ‘aisatsu’ like them and experience the evolution of Kiwami, then perhaps like Nic and Michael, I, too, would be a little teary-eyed.