India: Love it or hate it. It is the liveliest place I have been to so far. The craziest. Cows in the middle of the road, the traffic, the honking, dust, garbage, vendors, Hinduism, motors, tuktuks, touts, crowded trains—the moment I started walking the streets of Delhi, this mix dazzled me at every turn. Walking was like negotiating a maze as I sidestepped cow pies without getting hit by a motorcycle or tuktuk or bumping into people. Locals, especially men, stared while touts and vendors hawked their stuff and beggars followed at my heels. Being a tourist, I found out, meant being the attraction du jour.