To get to Flame, Discovery Primea’s recently opened fine-dining restaurant, you have to take the elevator up to the top floor, and appropriately so.

Flame is the kind of restaurant you reward yourself with when you’ve reached the top of your profession, or are on the brink of getting there. First there are the refinements, which start with warm greetings from an impeccably dressed staff, who’ll lead you to your table with their right hands over their hearts, just so you know how pleased they are to have you there.

Then there’s the tableware—the luster of Schott Zwisel crystal goblets, the Robert Welch stainless-steel flatware from the English countryside that are polished to a brilliant shine, and the immaculate white table napkins all conspire to create an aura of glamour and sophistication. The spectacular view of Makati, with its skyscrapers and shimmering lights, adds to this feeling of luxury and elegance.

At the heart of it all is, but of course, the food. The partnership of general manager David Pardo de Ayala and executive chef Luis Chikiamco has produced modern European cuisine combined with Asian flavors which, said chef Luis, they are “pushing in bold, intriguing directions.”

“Every dish… is created with a deep
respect for and understanding of the ingredients, knowledge of culinary techniques and overall mastery of their association,” added Pardo de Ayala.

To this end, chef Luis—who happens to be my nephew—uses only fresh and seasonal products.

Indeed, even the basket of bread that’s served before the start of the meal seems to have been well conceptualized. The crusty ciabatta bread came with organic butter from Bukidnon and olive oil infused with lemon, pepper, thyme and rosemary.
For our first course, the sharp saltiness of the quezo de bola balanced the subtle sweetness of the glazed ham. Topping the dish was a diaphanous foam made from cheese which dissipated like bubbles on the taste buds.

Light and delicate

The seared Chilean sea bass that came next was light and delicate. Resting on a pillow of puréed potatoes, its exquisite flavor was bolstered by the mellow sweetness of garlic confit and the tangy mushroom broth simmered with Madeira wine.

True to the restaurant’s concept, the foie gras was East Meets West. The pan-seared slab of foie gras was bathed in an ever so subtle teriyaki sauce. Pickled pears provided the fruity acidity so vital to this sensuous dish, while a crown of slightly bitter curly frisée leaves balanced the overall richness.

But, as promised, there was a surprise. Chef Luis had seared the foie gras with tiny crystals of salt, keeping the taste buds in a constant state of alertness.

By this time we didn’t need to be

further convinced of Flame’s meritorious concept, but there was still another course prepared for us that evening. Fork tender, with a Certified Angus pedigree, the braised US short ribs were served with puréed celeriac, mustard seeds and for the Asian touch, a ginger tamarind sauce.
Dessert was a deconstructed tiramisu with a scoop of mascarpone cream huddled beside chocolate cake and bubbly foams of coffee. On top: a crunchy, slightly salty tuile, to complete the playful merger of textures and flavors.

The table service in Flame was not only attentive, it was downright solicitous. If you mess up the arrangement of the goblets on your place setting, for instance, a waiter will come and discreetly rearrange them for you.

On top of the world

Other items on Flame’s menu that look interesting include roasted Scottish salmon, pan-roasted duck breast and Australian rack of lamb charcoal roasted on a Josper Grill. All come with sides that affirm the restaurant’s concept of contemporary food with an Asian touch. They’re reason enough to return to this restaurant, not to mention that ambiance of elegance and luxury, and that feeling of being on top of the world (or at least on top of Makati).

Flame Restaurant, Discovery Primea, 6749 Ayala Avenue,Makati. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner, 6-10 p.m. Tel. 9558888 local 1610.