This Melbourne institution is shaping the city’s dining narrative, going beyond food and highlighting the best of hospitality
As we are seated, a gentle beam of light pours over our table that overlooks a view of Flinders Lane, one of Melbourne’s busiest streets. It’s exactly 7 p.m. on a Thursday, and Gimlet at Cavendish House is as busy as expected.
If you’re anything like me and are the kind of person to look up “All the best restaurants” in a particular city you may be traveling to, then you would most definitely find Gimlet at the top of that list, if you find yourself in Melbourne.
Ranked 84th in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Longlist, Gimlet has easily established itself as a Melbourne institution since it opened its doors back in 2020.
Located in a city beaming with life, heritage, art, and diversity, there is absolutely no shortage of experiences to revel in when you arrive in Australia’s second largest city. Melbourne, after all, has been listed as one of the most liveable cities in the world.
With the exception of its unpredictable weather, Victoria’s gateway carries with it an unlimited supply of charm that just might leave you thinking, “Could I live here?”
(Yes, you definitely could)
As the sun set, Gimlet’s warm cinematic lighting came to life. Its interiors, reminiscent of the nostalgic glamor of old Chicago, quickly transport you to a realm of understated European charm.
“It was the heritage of the building that attracted us to this site in the first place,” notes Gimlet owner and executive chef Andrew McConnell.
Located in the heart of Melbourne’s central business district, Cavendish House was built in the 1920s and is easily one of the city’s most treasured landmark buildings. “We were very careful to honor and respect this as we developed the design and considered the experience for our guests.”
Throughout the venue, you hear the bustle of its patrons—guests old and new share laughter and rich conversations over their favorite Gimlet dish. The evening has just begun.
To start, we were served Gimlet’s classic and well-loved Gnocco Fritto with bresaola and Parmesan. A light, pillowy, fried dough served with aged Italian beef and Parmesan—it was the perfect appetizer to prepare us for the evening ahead.
The San Jose saucisson paired with perfectly baked sourdough bread, butter, and Sicilian green olives remains one of my most talked about dishes of the evening. At Gimlet, the saying that good quality ingredients create the most delicious food rings ever so true.
When it comes to sourcing ingredients, McConnell emphasizes how Gimlet works with as many local suppliers as possible and only uses produce that is in season. In highlighting the best of local ingredients, sustainability and community are prioritized, further underlining their unique approach to not only food but hospitality as well.
“We try to focus on the hospitality values that we believe in—developing our team and our product, working with integrity, being inclusive, striving for quality, and nurturing the community around us.”
“We try to focus on the hospitality values that we believe in—developing our team and our product, working with integrity, being inclusive, striving for quality, and nurturing the community around us.”
For entrées, a plate of Spencer Gulf prawns and salmon roe laid atop calamarata pasta opens into our mains. Its rich and hearty sauce nestled into the nooks and crannies of the pasta paired perfectly with the natural flavors of the prawn and salmon roe.
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For the main event of the evening, we selected a Blackmore Wagyu sirloin with a 9+ marble score served in a jus gras, paired with French fries and a side salad. The beef was tender as they came, and melted in our mouths like butter. It was quite literally the most delicious steak I had ever had in my entire life. The fries were cooked to perfection and provided the perfect crunch to contrast the succulence of the beef. The side salad was bright and light, offering a delightful balance to the entire meal.
To finish things off, we indulged in a delectable Valrhona chocolate and Amaretto tart with pillowy mascarpone generously piped on top. A delightfully decadent end to an evening of pure gastronomy.
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Apart from being served a literal feast, it was hard to ignore the visual feast that lay before us as we dined.
When asked about how the classic design of Gimlet influences the culinary presentation of each dish, McConnell shares: “The culinary presentation is classic and familiar. Our dishes are founded in time-honored cooking techniques; this feels like the right food for this kind of space. Gimlet transports guests to a different era by being grand but also familiar. There is an energy about the space that is hard to define. It has a worldliness to it that has a lot to do with the original bones of the building. People feel like they have been here before, even if they haven’t.”
“Gimlet transports guests to a different era by being grand but also familiar. There is an energy about the space that is hard to define. It has a worldliness to it that has a lot to do with the original bones of the building.”
It is this same worldliness that defines the palette of Gimlet. Each dish, no matter how complex or simple, carries with it a sophistication and charm that can only be achieved through a passionate mastery of food—something McConnell has exemplified throughout his career both as a chef and restaurateur.
The staff, all of whom exuded a friendliness and familiarity with everything on the menu also remains one of the highlights of our evening.
“I like to think, and hope, that it is the day-to-day experiences that leave an impression on our team and our guests. Every day has its own special feeling and energy that isn’t about big or obvious—it’s the small moments that combine to leave a lasting impression.” notes McConnell.
“I like to think, and hope, that it is the day-to-day experiences that leave an impression on our team and our guests. Every day has its own special feeling and energy that isn’t about big or obvious—it’s the small moments that combine to leave a lasting impression.”
Oftentimes, establishments are narrowly defined by how delicious their food is. And while that remains a large part of the experience, there is nothing quite like exemplary hospitality that goes hand in hand with an excellent meal; which is precisely what makes dining at Gimlet such an enjoyable experience.
At the end of the day, it truly is the small moments that define an incredible experience.
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Gimlet at Cavendish House is located in 33 Russell St, Melbourne VIC 3000. Visit their website for reservations.
