Adobo with a Singapore touch

OCTOBER 27, 2022

The author with “my teacher” Violet Oon
The author with “my teacher” Violet Oon
The author with “my teacher” Violet Oon
The author with “my teacher” Violet Oon

It’s lovely to be reunited with people who’ve enriched you and made you better. As such, time with Violet Oon, the doyen of Singapore cuisine and Peranakan food, is always special for me.

I will never forget my morning walks to her apartment some 20 years ago, where Violet would teach me the rudiments to preparing some of the most iconic dishes of Singapore.

What I learned from Violet is far more valuable than recipes. Under her tutelage, I gained a deeper understanding of Singaporean and Peranakan culture. Add to that, a dimension and a depth to my style of cooking.

Violet never rests; then and now, she is always up to something—busy representing Singapore overseas, while locally expanding her food line and opening new restaurant concepts every now and then.

Her food is dynamic, ever-changing. Somehow, with her touch, traditional dishes seem heartier, fresher. Her flavors are on point.

Friend of Filipino foodies

Violet confessed that she is always cooking and testing and perfecting recipes for her restaurants in Singapore.

She needs little introduction, as she is a friend of many Filipino foodies.

Walk through her restaurant and surely a kababayan is present, savoring Violet’s dishes with gusto. Violet Oon Singapore at ION on Orchard Road has become a preferred place to eat for many, especially those who crave for Singapore and Nonya dishes, done as only Violet can.

I recall her Beef Rendang. It was a symphony of spices, blended to delicate perfection. It was creamy and aromatic.

Done to perfection was a Peranakan classic, the Buah Keluak Ayam, said to be one of the preferred dishes of the late Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew.

Buah Keluak Ayam
Buah Keluak Ayam

The chicken in sour hot gravy is made with tamarind and with the famed black nut called buah keluak. Making it is tedious; the hard nut is broken on the top to form a hole. The nut flesh is removed, pureed until fine and then filled back into the nut. The paste and the nut are incorporated back into the dish. Violet pointed out that Buah Keluak Ayam is considered an epicurean dish in Peranakan (also called Nyonya or Nonya) cuisine.

She presented what she claimed as her version of chop suey, Chap Chye—a dish of Hokkien Chinese heritage made with a prawn and bean paste stock.

Chap Chye
Chap Chye

Kueh Pie Tee made by Violet is a must! The crisp cups are filled with jicama and bamboo shoots drizzled with a sweet fruit sauce and finely ground red chilies. One is never enough.

Kueh Pie Tee
Kueh Pie Tee —CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS

Heritage dishes

When in Singapore, laksa is most often on the must-eat list. Dry laksa is among Violet’s signature dishes, made with fresh thick rice noodles, a creamy spice sauce, prawns, slices of fish cake, bean curd puffs and a generous serving of julienned laksa leaves. Do not forget to toss well before eating.

Oh, yes, our food was plenty, considering that it was just Violet and me. But how could she resist presenting the best of her country on a plate, and how could I not have a taste of it?

Ngoh Hiang is a Hokkien heritage dish made with deep fried paté of minced chicken, prawns, crab meat, water chestnuts and onions, beautifully seasoned, wrapped in bean curd skin, steamed and sliced when cold and firm, and deep fried.

We also had her huge, chunky and tasty chicken satays.

Chicken Satay
Chicken Satay

I am grateful to Violet for many things, among them her appreciation for all things Filipino!

She professed, “I love Filipino food for its ‘familiar yet different’ delicious tastes and textures. I think Filipinos love the new yet comforting tastes and textures of my own Peranakan/Singapore cooking!”

Violet invites all Filipinos visiting Singapore to dine at her establishments. For a quick bite before or after a flight, there’s Violet Oon Singapore in Jewel Changi Airport.

For a real lush dining experience, pair a visit to the National Gallery of Singapore with a meal at National Kitchen by Violet Oon.

Violet has been with Joy Aringo, her Filipina housekeeper, for decades. “Joy actually does not like to cook, but because of the love she sees me lavish on my cooking every day, she has been inspired to share Filipino foods she loves with me,” Violet said.

This is Violet’s adobo. It is her tribute to the Philippines—a country that through the years, through its people, she has grown to love.

Pork and Eggplant Adobo

1 kg belly of pork with skin, cut into 3-cm cubes

1 kg purple eggplants, cut into finger lengths

2-4 shallots, peeled, sliced

8 cloves garlic, peeled, sliced

6 Tbsp vegetable oil

3-4 c water

3 Tbsp sugar

2 Tbsp rice vinegar

Fresh red chilies/chilli padi, sliced

For the sauce:

Mix together:

6 Tbsp (90 g) oyster sauce

6 Tbsp (90 g) light soy sauce

2 tsp (10 g) black pepper fresh ground

2 Tbsp (30 g) rice vinegar

2 whole heads garlic, peeled, ground semifine

Cut eggplant into finger lengths, and cut each length into two then soak in 1 tsp salted water for 10-30 minutes or until ready for cooking. Drain until dry.

Wash and drain pork and fully dry.

Heat wok, add oil and when very hot, add eggplants with cut side down. Cook until brown, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove the eggplant and ½ of the oil.

Let wok heat up, add sliced shallots, fry for 1 minute until fragrant.

Add garlic, stir-fry well for 2 minutes until lightly browned and fragrant.

Add pork, fry until pork is lightly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Add sauce. Bring to boil with 3 cups water. Boil on medium heat for 15 minutes.

Then turn heat down to let pork simmer until the meat is tender, adding 1 more cup of water if the mixture gets too dry.

When gravy thickens, add vinegar and sugar. The taste is to be strongly sweet and sour.

Add eggplants and chilies just before serving and simmer until you get thick gravy.

Follow @iamreggieaspiras on Instagram and Facebook; reggieaspiras.com

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