It has always been a game of hit and miss for Philippine Fashion Week. Some seasons are solid—great lineup and grand set-ups—while some have seen better days. The biannual fashion event is now on its 20th year and has moved from its previous venue, the SMX Convention Center in SM Mall of Asia, to a fresher space at the SM Aura Atrium.

With this change, expectations from this almost-plateauing event are high (not just locally but even fashion weeks worldwide). With a not-so-exciting lineup in tow, guests are still expecting to be surprised.

Yes, quite the surprise. The only thing Fashion Week and turning 20 have in common is the concept of aging. Day one shows and looks seem dated and uninspired. Sure, there were random hits here and there, but the day’s takeaway is the hope that the next two days might be better.

Let’s play a game of hit and miss. See who upped their game, and those who went way, way out of their league.

Anthony Nocom x Moschi

There’s something about local designer clothes that look like they can be bought off-the-rack (read: not appealing). Good thing there were looks that fit in the global “geek chic” trend that made this set acceptable.

Verdict: Hit, but by the skin of their teeth

Boyet Dysangco x Case-Mate

This collection was basically 10 dresses in 10 different colors.

Verdict: Total miss. 

Jian Lasala

Easy slip dresses sound like an interesting, wear-anywhere proposition, but only if they’re done right. We went back and forth with this one because on second thought, strappy, floor-grazing slips with full-on sequins do not qualify as “easy dressing.”

Verdict: Miss

Lyle Ibañez x Happy Plugs Stockholm

We are such suckers for ribbon detailing when done right. The first half of the collection was a clear attempt to make use of piña and abaca fabric innovatively but it was nothing we haven’t seen before. The pace picked up during the second half where neoprene and jumbo ribbon details appeared on the runway. The gloves-with-dresses look was off-kilter (even Amal Clooney could barely pull that off), but could be forgiven.

 Verdict: More on the hit side

Sidney Perez Sio x Beats by Dr. Dre

It’s either you hate it or you love it. The picture: sporty meets barong Tagalog. Barong dresses paired with visors, and sequined joggers with barong tops while sporting Beats headphones were a few of the odd pairings we couldn’t quite figure out. Do we hate it? The idea wasn’t so bad. So do we love it? That’s pushing it.

Verdict: We’re on the fence on this one

See the slideshow above for the top looks from the designers’ collections.

Photos by Patrick Segovia