Cecille Chang has spent over a decade mastering Thai cuisine. Asked why Thai food, she replied, “I love the marriage of four flavors—salty, sweet, sour and spicy. Thai cooking is so balanced in flavor even without butter.”
When Chang opened Thai at Silk in 2006 in Bonifacio Global City, she was an eager, hardworking chef with super red lips, whose food was masterfully and authentically executed, exactly as her mentors taught her to.
After eight years and completing a 12-month intensive culinary training all over Thailand, including special sessions with the royal family’s private chef, Chang is back as the “chef in stilettos,” as she is fondly called in Manila.
“It was important for me to further hone my skills,” she said, adding that she’s “the only Filipino member of the prestigious Thai Chef Association.”
She noted that Silk Road, her latest and seventh restaurant, boasts of her new culinary creations. “You can’t find these in any cookbook,” she said.
Each dish she presents is a reflection of her much evolved, confident persona. However, she still serves many traditional Thai recipes as they remain the favorites of many.
Her dishes are plated playfully. Taste-wise, they are a unique symphony of distinct flavors. Her food may be compared to some of the prestigious, high-end restaurants in Bangkok.
During my visit to Silk Road, I enjoyed the Foie Gras Makham: two hefty slices of rich pan-fried foie made lively and fresh by julienned kaffir. The richness of the liver was enhanced by the sweet, delicious and fruity tamarind coulis. It is perhaps the cheapest foie in Manila at P585.
Her Moules Thai exploded with tastiness, in a subtle yet complex marrying of flavors—the natural juice of the cold water mussels made aromatic by the ginger and the Thai herbs, infused beautifully with the coconut milk.
For those who love ribs, Chang’s Siamese Pork Ribs is a much improved version from her previous restaurant. Marinated overnight with cinnamon, ginger, honey and Thai spices, it is slow-cooked for six hours until the flesh falls off the bone. She then flambés it with Mekhong whisky. It was beautifully presented over smoking-hot charcoal.
Also noteworthy is the Sala Daeng—chicken stuffed on hearts of lemongrass that Chang loosened strand by strand, each fiber separated from the other to form a “bud.” The bud is then stuffed with forcemeat—chicken and herbs served with sweet chili sauce. It was fragrant, citrusy, uniquely delicious.
Chang shared her recipe for Mieng Kham, a popular street food made with betel leaves, coconut and shrimp. (I see a lot of betel nut leaves being sold in Quiapo.)
Mieng kham
- 6 pcs betel nut leaves (lettuce may be substituted)
- 15 g roasted coconuts
- 20 g roasted whole peanuts
- Chili (optional)
- Coriander leaves, chopped
- 10 g sliced ginger
- 10 g sliced shallots
- 20 g dried shrimp
- 20 g sliced lime peel
- 10 g sliced lemongrass stems
- Shrimp (optional)
- Mieng kham sauce
Arrange the betel leaves or lettuce in a platter or mini tea cup. With a teaspoon, portion each ingredient, putting a little bit of each, layering them one on top of the other over the leaves. Drizzle with mieng kham sauce.
Mieng kham sauce
- ½ tsp shrimp paste
- 50 g sliced ginger
- 6 pcs kaffir leaves
- 100 g sugar
- 5 tbsp fish sauce
- 50 g grated coconut
Caramelize the sugar with fish sauce. Add the shrimp paste, kaffir, grated coconut and ginger. Reduce flame, using low fire till all the ingredients blend well.
Silk Road Thai Bistro is at Net Quad Corporate Center, Shop H, 4th Ave. cor. 31st St., Bonifacio Global City. Call tel. nos. 8241678 and 0923-4218294.
Discoveries
From my sister, I have discovered Hansel’s Premium Cheese Sandwich. It is addicting—delicately crisp, flavorful yet not overpowering. The cheese filling is sublime, sharp, but not strong; it complements the cracker perfectly.
It’s not salty at all. Next time you’re in the grocery, grab yourself a box. It’s made by Republic Biscuit Corp., proudly Philippine-made.
For the past month, my mom has been feasting on Carmen’s Best Salted Caramel Ice Cream. Just as your palate begins to savor that rich, golden burnt sugar flavor, saltiness creeps in, making you want to start the experience all over again.
