Sicillian artist and culinary instructor Antonio Quartana has opened Gusto Trattoria. He claims it is the only place in the country where people can try traditional Sicilian cuisine.

 

Gusto is a real Italian trattoria, Quartana says, and by that he means that it is more than just a family-run restaurant where Italian traditional dishes are served. “A trattoria reflects the taste, the tradition and the outlook of the Italians,” he explains.

 

Affordable, simple

 

Quartana adds that a trattoria should be affordable and must cater to those who prefer simple food made from the freshest ingredients, and prepared in a manner that reflects the personality and the character of the chef. A trattoria dish aims to be a well-executed home-cooked meal, he says.

 

“The menu is short and every day we make something new. Almost everything is prepared on the spot, except for the specials of the day that consist of slow-cooked dishes prepared the day before and left overnight for the flavors to mellow and meld.”

 

The day I visited him, Quartana had Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia (Squid Ink Pasta) and Fettuccine with Duck Ragu on the menu. Both pastas were cooked perfectly al dente, and the sauces were simple yet clean and satisfying.

 

Owner’s heritage

 

Trattoria cuisine is the expression through food of the restaurant owner’s heritage. The menu highlights regional delicacies and family specialties—such as Quartana’s version of the pesto, which has beans, potatoes, almonds and pistachios—a recipe that has been in his family for centuries.

 

“Sicilian cuisine is probably one of the oldest in Italy,” says Quartana. “We have the most number and most diverse dishes. The influence of our cuisine comes from the Greeks, Arabians, Turkish, Spanish and the French. In fact, the first manuscript about cuisine was written in Sicily more than 2,000 years ago.”

 

“Sicilians like to eat well and our culinary creations are extraordinary; this is evident in family meals, be it modest or aristocratic,” he adds.

 

Street food

 

Quartana says his dishes are not found in other Italian restaurants in the metro.

 

“We make panelle, a popular street food. You’ll find these fritters all over Palermo (made from chickpeas, usually sandwiched between crusty bread).”

 

At Gusto, he serves it with a wedge of lime, sprinkled with Himalayan pink salt.

 

Sicilian cooking requires a lot of imagination “with just a few ingredients available at the moment,” says Quartana. Indeed, it could be quite a challenge, since many ingredients in Sicilian cooking are not easily found in Manila.

 

Moreover, Sicilian cuisine is best taken in a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere, reflecting the Italian way of life. Which should make Gusto Trattoria a truly unique dining experience.

 

Here are some of Quartana’s trattoria-style recipes for you to try at home.

 

Octopus salad

• 500 g potato, cubed
• 1 kg octopus
• 1 celery stalk, chopped
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 3 gloves garlic, chopped
• 1 pinch, parsley
• 6 tbsp, olive oil, adjust accordingly
• 2 tbsp, lemon juice
• Salt
• Black pepper

 

1. Boil the potato, remove the skin and cut into cubes.
2. Boil the octopus over low heat for 40 minutes in salted water.
3. Let it rest for another 40 minutes.
4. Thinly slice the octopus, then set aside to cool.
5. Combine the rest of the ingredients and mix them in a bowl.
6. Add octopus and potatoes.
7. Correct the seasoning to taste.

 

Calamari Ripieni

 

• 1 kg squid medium or small, cleaned, ink sac removed and tentacles chopped for filling

 

 

For the sauce:

 

• 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 cloves chopped garlic
• Pepper flakes
• 2 tbsp capers
• 1 bay leaf
• 400 g  peeled and chopped tomatoes

 

For the sauce:

 

1. In a frying pan, add 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil.
2. Sauté garlic.
3. Add parsley, a little pepper flakes and capers.
4. Add the bay leaf and tomatoes and cook for 10-15 minutes.
5. Season to taste.

 

Filling:

 

• 8 tbsp olive oil
• 800 g chopped onions
• 2 tbsp capers
• 2 tbsp raisins
• Handful of chopped almonds
• Tentacles, chopped
• ¼ c parsley
• 1/3 c white wine
• Pinch of thyme
• ¼ c parsley
• 2 c of toasted breadcrumbs

 

1. Sauté the onions in 8 tbsp olive oil.
2. Add capers, raisins and almonds; add the chopped tentacles, parsley and white wine.
3. Turn off the heat and add the thyme, plus the remaining ¼ cup parsley and breadcrumbs.
4. Cool mixture.
5. Stuff squid with the mixture.
6. Secure squid, stuffing it with a toothpick.
7. Arrange squid on a baking dish and cover with the sauce.
8. Bake in preheated oven at 190º for 12-15 minutes. Serve hot.

 

Carpaccio di Funghi

 

• 200 g of fresh mushrooms, closed (champignon)

  

• Salt
• Thyme
• Garlic, finely chopped
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Lemon
• Parsley or arugula
• Parmesan

 

1. Clean the mushrooms and slice thinly with a mandolin.
2. Arrange mushrooms on a plate without overlapping.
3. Sprinkle with salt, chopped garlic and thyme.
4. Drizzle with olive oil and the juice of half a lemon.
5. Allow mushrooms to marinate for an hour.
6. Before serving, finish with coarsely chopped flat leaf parsley or arugula and parmesan shavings.
7. Serve with crusty bread.

 

(Gusto Trattoria is at  215 Aguirre Ave., BF Homes Parañaque)