My friends and I were intrigued when Steamed Pakwan Fish was served to us during a hen lunch at Choi Garden. The fish had a red head and a black body. To our eyes, it resembled a grouper.

We asked our servers what it was and we were simply told it was pakwan fish. Maybe because of its color.

Upon first bite, we all agreed it was the best-tasting steamed fish we ever had. The flesh was firm to the bite, yet soft and delicate that it melted in the mouth. It was creamy, buttery and sweet.

The experience was nothing at all like steamed fish. The deliciousness piqued my curiosity. I just had to know what fish it was.

I spoke to the president of Choi Garden, Lenford Dy, but like everyone else, he knew little about it except that it’s a deep sea fish. It is not a grouper, and its availability is seasonal.

What we tried was the black pakwan. There’s a red variety—red from face to tail—and it’s said to be even better.

We partook of other interesting dishes during our hen lunch, like the very light crab soup with glass noodles. The tasty crab-roe-flavored broth is best enjoyed while cracking the crabs open and sipping the soup.

We also had a refreshing cold chicken salad—slivered chicken, sliced cucumber and crystal noodles (with bite and consistency similar to jelly) topped with peanuts. This Hainanese-style chicken was a light and healthy dish.

HK-style roast

While Lenford takes charge of restaurant operations of Choi Garden, it is at Mala Tang that he expresses himself through food.

I have heard people talk about this hole-in-the-wall eatery that serves Hong Kong-style roasts. While the place may indeed be small and devoid of frills, its offerings are big on taste.

I didn’t know Lenford is one of the owners of this Hong Kong roaster, too. When I finally had the chance to dine at Mala Tang, I found sparse tables; the business thrives mostly on takeaway.

According to my friends who have made the restaurant their kitchen, the place is known to run out of roasts way before closing time. Thus, one has to order and reserve in advance.

Lenford said he has spent many years learning and experimenting with food. As a child, Chinese street food took his fancy, such that he took up culinary arts.

His roast duck was so juicy, unlike other renditions that are more often hard and dry. Mala Tang’s is made from imported duck. The meat was tasty, tender, seasoned to perfection with a tinge of sweetness on the finish.

It also smelled delicious, and the golden-brown skin made it look wonderful and more appetizing.

Tasty treat

The white chicken (made from imported Hong Kong chicken) was another tasty treat. Rich, meaty, flavorful and served with ginger sauce, the dish offered comfort in every bite.

The skin of Dy’s Lechon Macau takes more than two hours to achieve perfection. It is cooked to charring point, then scraped. This tedious process transforms the skin into a crisp, thin, wafer-like layer that crumbles to the bite.

Dipping the chunky pieces of meat in mustard cuts through the richness of the seasoned pork belly. Next time, though, I will request to have the pork cut into smaller cubes.

The only dessert was delicious—yellow steamed buns filled with soft egg custard.

In time for the holiday season, Mala Tang is offering a sampler of all its popular roasts. It will surely add zing to your potluck parties. The sampler is good for six (though a platter can be made for a crowd). It is also perfect for quick meals, especially if you enjoy varied tastes.

Choi Garden, Annapolis St., Greenhills, San Juan; tel. 7276042, 7245343, 7277489

Mala Tang, 207 Mabini St., Brgy. Addition Hills, San Juan. For orders call 09178786075.