The Diva, gay to the heavens and proud of it, waited for me at the restaurant for over half an hour as I was stuck in Sta. Mesa traffic. “Puro Catholic chorva dito, naloloka ako (This place is full of Catholic stuff, I’m going crazy)!” he texted. I giggled as I stepped on the pedal, rushing to Ristorante delle Mitre, a Catholic-themed restaurant across the San Agustin Church in Intramuros.
It was created over a year ago by Ms. Elvira Go, a friend to priests and bishops. Whiling away time at the Vatican, she and several friends thought of putting up a restaurant with a Catholic theme in Manila. A few years and many pages of research later on the favorite dishes of bishops, Ristorante delle Mitre was born.
The theme is not only decidedly Catholic but screaming it. On one corner is a mannequin dressed as a bishop. Alongside this “bishop,” displayed on the wall, are the bishops’ hats of three Filipino priests being evaluated for beatification: Bishop Alfredo Versoza from the Archdiocese of Lipa, Batangas, Bishop Alfredo Obviar from the Archdiocese of Lucena and Bishop Teofilo Camomot from the Archdiocese of Cebu.
On other walls you will find a monstrance (a standing container, usually in gold, that holds the Blessed Sacrament) used as display. “There is no host in it and it is not blessed, so it is alright to use,” Go explained.
The restaurant seems to be truly blessed, though, as it was full during lunch on a Tuesday, and turnover was quick.The restaurant, we were informed, has occasionally been used for meetings among the clergy – sometimes even to discuss controversial issues like the RH Bill.
“Pro-RH ako!” the Diva said in a very loud voice, laughing hard at his misbehavior. I looked around quickly to see if anyone heard. Fortunately, in an effort to present equal opportunities to the handicapped, the servers at the resto are deaf-mute graduates from the College of St. Benilde. So they turned a deaf ear, literally, to the Diva’s impudent comment. He may have been heard by Cardinal Rosales, though, who was seated a few tables away and I worried about being excommunicated by osmosis.
Even the Diva, though, was not spared from the good vibes of the restaurant. Truth be told, when I arrived I almost choked, laughing in shock, when I saw the book he was reading: “Conversations With God 2.”
“Binili ko dyan (at the little souvenir shop by the restaurant cashier). I read the first book when I was in jail,” he said in Filipino, laughing and admitting his colored past.
We peered through the menu, which literally lists the favorite dishes of bishops, cardinals and priests. His Eminence Ricardo J. Cardinal Vidal, Archbishop of Cebu, favors crispy pata (on the menu it is Carding’s Crispy Pata), kare-kare, callos, humba, crab relleno and bacalao. His Eminence Gaudencio B. Cardinal Rosales, Archbishop of Manila, appreciates pasta: pasta with shrimp in garlic sauce, penne with shrimp and kesong puti, tomato pasta and spaghetti with pesto sauce. These are fondly referred to as “Lolo Dency’s” pastas. Various other bishops and priests are in the menu as well: Archbishop Lagdameo’s simmered adobo. Monsignor Ilde’s aglio olio, Msgr. Teodoro MCST’s fresh lumpia with peanut and garlic sauce.
The menu is simple and straightforward. It is something I would describe as lutong bahay, although Ariel Ayala of the Catholic radio station Veritas describes it more aptly as lutong madre. Which it is, literally, as the chief cook in the kitchen is the former personal cook of Cardinal Vidal.
The meals are hearty – the kare-kare is rich in peanut sauce; the bacalao is saucy but with the saltiness expected of it; a burger meal is reminiscent of Jollibee’s best, and the paella valenciana, which takes 45 minutes to cook, is just like your favorite aunt would make it. Even the chocolate cake, made in their very own kitchen, is moist and delicious. The dishes are nothing spectacular in flavor but they will definitely leave you satisfied.
It’s a real food trip, at the very least. Expect to see nuns scuttling about, priests having not only a hearty meal but a hearty laugh, and servers who may not mind you immediately because they literally don’t hear you. Risa Hontiveros, Beth Angsioco and Carlos Celdran* might hesitate to eat here, but the vibes are good and the food is praiseworthy in its own humble way. •
*Pro-RH advocates
Ristorante delle Mitre. CBCP Building, 470 General Luna St. corner Real St., Intramuros, Manila (across San Agustin Church). Tel. no. 559-5220. Open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Breakfast menu available. Major credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended. Wheelchair accessible.
