Milan Fashion Week–from somber to brights, streamlined to embellished
Milan may be cold, wet and snowing for the most part of Fashion Week, but the weather certainly did not dampen the mood at the shows.
There was really no one particular direction or theme that the designers adhered to for their Fall 2013 collections, and this made the collections all the more exciting to see. Looks from different brands varied from clean lines to highly embellished, and from dark and somber to printed brights.
Here are some highlights from the Milan Fashion Week.
Gucci jump-started the Fall/Winter 2013 season in black—textured, printed and interspersed with colors. Fash-pack favorites included the python peplum jacket perfectly paired with lace mesh. Striking and strong pieces that were couture-inspired included lace mesh dresses embroidered and embellished in detail, with paillettes and feathers seeming to take flight off the runway. Gucci’s Giannini once again made a strong start to Milan Fashion Week.
One of Madonna’s favorite go-to designer friends is Francesco Scognamiglio. This coming season, the designer worked with neutral palettes—blacks, whites and nude tones. Clean, crisp and pared-down for most of his menswear-inspired collection, Scognamiglio also included a few ultra-feminine sheer-and-lace column dresses.
It was LVMH’s Antoine Arnault’s first time to attend the Fendi show, and my brief conversation with him backstage perfectly summarized what the Fendi Fall Winter 2013 was all about. “From the energy around and from what Karl Lagerfeld told me, it’s one of his best collections so far for Fendi… I have seen more fur and more leather than I expected for an RTW show. I think it’s great because Fendi is fur and Fendi is leather. The iconization of these two métiers is actually very logical for Fendi and is very beautiful.”
Cavalli’s Oriental inspiration for his Fall collection seems to have come from his recent trip to Bhutan. His ability to marry prints of different colors and patterns has remained unparalleled in the industry.
It is always tricky to use Swarovski crystal elements when it comes to clothes, without making them look garish. This has to be Antonio’s strongest point as a designer, because this is not his first time to utilize crystals, and he has once more brought out a fun and classy collection. He has always had this ability to transform otherwise ordinary pieces into something extraordinary: Knit jumpers get the bold floral treatment, or coats made with traditional menswear fabric get reworked and embellished with crystals. The collection was very cohesive and showcased Marras’ excellent ability to mix different elements together tastefully.
“Juxtaposition and contrast” were the inspirations for Anteprima’s F/W 2013 collection. Creative director Izumi Ogino told me she believes the Anteprima woman “is flexible. One day she could be riding a Rolls Royce and the next day she could be taking the subway.” Ogino has always stuck to a formula that has made the Italian brand a big success, especially in Asia. The collection has a subtle, sexy appeal while maintaining its classic and feminine tailoring.
Eva Cavalli noted in the program that the premier Roberto Cavalli collection looked to “Florence for the exquisite craftsmanship which went all the way back to the Renaissance period.” Roberto has always said his favorite color is black, because it serves as his “blank canvas” to highlight texture, color and, in this collection, highly detailed ornamentation and embellishments.
The author blogs at www.thebaghagdiaries.com and is at instagram.com/thebaghag.