Metro Manila’s dining scene continues to simmer as more restaurants open, giving diners a multitude of options.
There seems to be an undeniable affinity for anything Japanese, as the likes of Kumori Bakery and Curry House Coco Ichibanya gain loyal following.
Then there’s the anticipated opening of foreign brands such as Pink’s Hotdog, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse and FOO’D by Davide Oldani, all of which have been creating buzz.
In the face of these foreign invasions, local cuisine is not to be outdone. It gets a much welcome boost with the opening of three restaurants, each put up by some of the industry’s finest chefs and Filipino cuisine advocates.
Alab
Given his talent and skills, Myke “Tatung” Sarthou could play with tradition and come up with more hits such as his pandan pichi-pichi with brûléed leche flan sauce and queso de bola.
But for his latest project, Alab, he decided to go classic Filipino.
“We need a clear discourse on what Filipino food is,” he says. “There is a lot of room for creativity, but we haven’t defined what our cuisine is yet. If ever there’s a twist, it’s only minimal and applied more on the techniques. I stick to the original ingredients.”
Hence, he offers fare we have always loved, prepped and cooked the way they should be—without shortcuts—beef morcon, sisig, kare-kare, chicken inasal and sinigang, made sour with the fruit of the season. Currently, its tang is provided by calamansi.
What’s great is that Alab also introduces us to underappreciated dishes of Mindanao, such as the pianggang or grilled chicken cooked in a vat of coconut milk and a Tausug spice made of turmeric, lemongrass and burnt coconut.
The sugpo sa palapa are prawns with Maranao seasoning made of sakurab and crab fat.
Alab is at 67 Scout Rallos, Quezon City.
Kafe Batwan
Inspired by Singaporean kopitiam and Parisian cafes, brother-sister tandem JP and Tracie Anglo set up a contemporary dining place with a strong Filipino identity.
Kafe Batwan took over the space occupied by Bistecca at Rockwell.
Tracie, a café junkie, takes care of the coffee part, while chef JP is responsible for providing modern, playful versions of traditional Filipino fare.
Don’t mistake it as an offshoot of Sarsa, as Kafe Batwan is more, in design and food offerings. A good mix of local materials and handmade pieces like traditional marquetry, woven abaca on drop lights and Philippine-made baskets, gives the two-story place a semblance of familiarity and local flair.
The dishes satisfy cravings any time of the day—from Tsokolate Tsamporado with carabao’s milk and muscovado syrup for breakfast, to deconstructed arroz caldo for merienda, to Grilled Kurobuta Belly marinated in batchoy stock and Blanco Adobado Chicken with garlic coconut rice for lunch or dinner.
Kafe Batwan is at 122 Joya Lofts and Towers, Rockwell, Makati City.
Balay Dako
Tony Boy Escalante of Antonio’s has upped his game by opening another restaurant in Tagaytay.
Balay Dako, or “big house” in Ilonggo, lives up to its name— the moss green-colored structure on the ridge is three stories high and offers a stunning view of Taal Volcano and its surroundings.
The Silong on the ground floor is for private functions; the Comedor is the main dining hall; and the Terrace on top will house the al-fresco bar.
“It’s like visiting an old tita’s home in the province,” says Escalante, who was hands-on in the design.
He has closed The Grill to make way for this more promising endeavor and carried over The Grill’s bestsellers to Balay Dako—all-time favorites such as Bulalo served with a side of caramelized onions; Kadyos made of black beans, pork belly and jackfruit; and grilled salmon and bangus stuffed with onion, tomato and coriander.
Balay Dako is along Emilio Aguinaldo Highway, Tagaytay City.
