One of the few shows that I look forward to during Paris Fashion Week is that of Louis Vuitton, because Vuitton’s shows have become more than just about clothes and bags.
The shows themselves are magnificent production spectacles that never fail to amaze and awe. If you thought last Spring’s carousel production and womenswear collection were unsurpassable in creating that lasting impression, think again.
This Fall/Winter 2012-13 season, the Louis Vuitton Express charged forward at four minutes past 10 in the morning inside the show venue at Cour Carrée du Louvre, much to everyone’s disbelief. And yes, like last season, jaws dropped again and a collective “oohh” and then “aahh” erupted from everyone.
Marc Jacobs has scored yet another coup for Louis Vuitton. Classic bag shapes in either signature monogram, mohair, or exotic leather get super-sized with the buckle treatment—whether with large crystals or in plain metal.
Luxe bags of mink in colors of canary and amethyst, and peridot and ruby shades of crocodile skin made into hat boxes were carried by the porters. (Interesting that this time, models were accompanied by capped porters, whereas in Fall/Winter 2011-12, the models wore caps which evoked English actress Charlotte Rampling in the ’70s film “The Night Porter.”)
Models, on the other hand, wore heavily embellished coats and Stephen Jones hats and paraded about, bag-free. Such a scene called to mind the way luxury travel used to be—by train and with porters. Jacobs had certainly infused the House’s deeply rooted travel heritage into this season’s collection.
And while there is something so Old-Worldly about the presentation, the collection itself seemed to look to the future with the application of seemingly holographic embroidery on oversized collar coats paired with cropped pants.
Dresses with bold embroidery were pared down with more conventional cashmere jumpers and cardigans. The marriage of different materials and textures was paramount to this collection, and Jacobs, without a doubt, knew his way around them and with them.
Ingrid Chua-Go is the blogger behind www.thebaghagdiaries.com. Follow on twitter “thebaghag.